In thinking of food in the Queen City, my thoughts turned to chili and hot dogs at one its stadiums. However, through a little research, I discovered an establishment in the trendy Mount Adams area of Cincinnati – Daveed’s at 934. Located in an old house on one of the area’s hilly streets, the restaurant offers diners a good experience in both food and service.

The space itself is simple and a bit rambling. Given its roots as an older dwelling, there are separate dining areas each with its own feel as far as furnishings and colors. We were seated in what felt to be a more modern part of the restaurant that consisted of simple furniture with brighter fabrics of bold colors. Overall, the atmosphere was pleasant, if a bit uninspired.

With her hectic schedule, Paige doesn’t often find the time to have an evening out, prompting us to start with a pre-dinner cocktail. The signature cocktail list was on the fruity and sweet side so I opted for my go-to selection (the Sidecar). When asking for the top shelf version of the drink and specifically stating cognac and Cointreau, what came back was simply the two liquors shaken – no lemon juice. While those two liquids do mix well, I like the tart acidity that comes from the lemon. Atypical for me, I did ask our server to re-shake the drink with some juice. However, what came back still wasn’t up to par with what I usually receive. Paige’s drink was a simple concoction that consisted of vodka and fruit juices. It was refreshing and not as sweet as we both expected.

The menu was a simple affair making for limited spent on decisions. Given that we’ve always been of like mind, we chose the same dishes. Just to ease us into what was to come, we selected the truffled french fries with an aioli. Despite the simplicity of the dish and the fact that every fast food joint sells fries, Daveed’s has elevated these simple spuds to an art form. Really, these were some of the best fries I’ve ever tasted. These larger cut potatoes had a crispy exterior with a cross between a creamy and fluffy interior. In addition to the truffle oil, there was a dusting of parmesan cheese giving them a bit of extra tanginess. We found ourselves squabbling over the crumbs – they were that good.

Next we both chose, of course, the foie gras. Would I pick anything else for a starter if this arterial plaque inducing option is on the menu? Despite its obvious unhealthy character, this is truly the food of the gods. The set up for the Daveed’s preparation was pan seared served on a triangle folded pancake drizzled with maple syrup accompanied by macerated cherries. An unusual combination that worked quite well. I was a bit concerned at first when the thinner area of the very generous portion was overcooked, but as I moved in the thicker region of the cut it was that creaminess one expects from properly seared liver. A bit of a surprise arrived at the table in the form of complimentary wine. In this case is was a 2006 Muscato (I didn’t make note of the winery). Not a sauternes, but as usual the good pairing of sweet wine with creamy foie is always appreciated.

As an interlude, we chose to split an heirloom tomato salad. What arrived at the table was a little unexpected. My definition of an heirloom tomato salad is big chunks of tomato with fresh mozzarella, basil and a slight vinegar base. Instead, what we received was a plate of arugula with tomatoes with cheese in a (very) light balsamic dressing. The ingredients were extremely fresh and the taste was up to expectation. Yet, I missed the juiciness of what I’ve typically had in salads of this name.

Before moving on to our main course, it’s important to mention the service. Simply stated, it was excellent. Our server, who we correctly guessed, was of French descent and probably one of the warmest wait staff members I’ve had in recent history. Always pleasant and attentive, she was highly knowledgable regarding the menu and always present when needed, but never hovering. Exceptional.

For our entree, the duck breast was the winner. Like the foie, the set up was a bit unexpected and we weren’t sure if it would work together, but we were both craving duck. The preparation was a generous portion of fowl with pasta and white cheddar. The duck was superbly prepared tender, rare, and juicy – just the way I like it. The pasta was perfectly al dente and the cheddar was more mild than sharp adding a subtle flavor. A prize of a dish.

We graciously refused dessert as we took home respectable amounts of the duck and pasta.

Daveed’s represents an interesting dining selection worth a visit if you ever find yourself in the Queen City along the Ohio River.

Food: 3.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Service: 3.5

Overall: 3.00

Cheers,

Dean

Our first wine is a 2009 Portuguese number, Adega  de Pegões. This is a choice wine for the price coming in at $9.99 per bottle at our local wine shop and we’ve seen it as reasonable as $8.99 on the web. It’s a blend of some unusual indigenous grapes including 70% Fernao Pires, 20% Moscatel, and 10% Arinto. For money, the wine is especially aromatic with some floral and citrus notes. On the palette, it is nicely balanced with some acid and a reasonable finish. Flavors include citrus and a continuation of the floral notes found in the nose. James also found melon and stone fruit on the palette, as well. Given its nice acidity, it pairs well with shellfish. James discovered this little gem and we keep a constant supply of it in our daily drinking rack. We recommend you do the same.

Adega de Pegoes

Our second recommendation, a recent addition to our list, is a Müller-Thurgau from Sokol Blosser. The varietal has little presence here in the US but is still the second most planted grape in Germany (as of 2006). We happened across this wine while in the Willamette Valley in May during a winery visit. The grapes are grown on the estate – visible from the tasting room – and the wine is produced in limited quantities with 300 cases for the 2009 vintage. The scent profile is dominated by floral notes – especially honeysuckle. A “just right” amount of acidity keeps the wine in balance and a bit of effervescence adds a even further refreshing quality. This is a wine that is quaffed easily and will appeal not only to the discerning wine drinker but also those that are new to the subject. We’re seriously considering another case before it’s too late.

Sokol Blosser

After writing the main body of the review, we did find another predominantly Müller-Thurgau from different Oregon producer, Montinore Estate, with the wine name of Borealis. This blend of Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Riesling is pleasant, refreshing, and available locally at about $13 per bottle. While nice in many respects, it lacks finesse of the Sokol Blosser – that elusive prettiness found in the 100% Müller-Thurgau. However, definitely worth a try especially at the price, plus no shipping charges and limited quantity issues.

Next up is a beautiful (in all aspects) 2008 Tavel from Chateau de Segries. It is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 15% Clairette, 5% Syrah that works magic. In the glass, this wine has a dazzling vibrant red color, sitting somewhere between a ruby and garnet illuminated from within. Served too cold, the nose is elusive, but once temperature rises scents of raspberry and some mineral are evident. These continue on the palette complemented by flavors of cherry and the right amount of tart acidity. This wine works well on its own or has the chops to pair with food. If nothing else, buy a bottle of this to gawk at the color but keep in mind it’s more than just a pretty face.

The Beautiful Tavel

Fourth in our list is frizzante Austrian Pinot Noir rosé from Weingut Michlits. The winery is truly biodynamic and the wine is organic making its $17 price point quite a value. Michlits makes a smallish production of this each year and this is our second vintage of tasting bearing nice consistency between the two. Color is not as intense on this wine as it is with the Tavel. When pouring the wine it’s impossible not to notice the champagne-like amount of bubbles; however, these quickly subside. Nose consists of strawberry and even some watermelon. Flavors are consistent with the nose accompanied by a slight sweetness. Although, this vintage is a bit more crisp than the 2008. With its bubbles, sweetness, and balanced acidity this a perfect wine for those 90 degree southern afternoons and evenings.

The Austrian Firzzante

Finally, we come to a surprising $10 Cava that our local wine shop expert recommended. She loves her bubbly and was buying this initially as a mixer only because of its price point. Upon tasting it without any mixers, she became a big fan. This Cava is a Brut Reserve from Dibon. The wine is a blend of three varietals, Xarel-lo, Parellada and Macabeo. A creamy citrus nose emanates from the glass with a bit of a yeasty quality. The clean tart notes continue on the palette. Just because of it’s price, don’t relegate this bargain to mixers. It’s perfectly fine to sip on its own.

Dibon Cava

There you have an abbreviated list of wines we like to sip in the heat of summer on the porch. Since starting this list we’ve found some new selections we enjoy so it may require Porch Wines Part Deux.

Cheers!

Dean and James

This is only the second lunch review we’ve done, with the all afternoon affair at Le Meurice being the first. Truth be told, like Le Meurice, it’s probably the only other lunch we’ve had that’s worth devoting a blog entry to the dining experience.

We arrived unexpectedly late due to our inability to discern Northwest streets from those of a Southwest nature. After calling to indicate our tardiness, we made our way across the river to our destination on Northwest Glisan.

The space that makes up Andina was larger than expected and seems to ramble a bit, having bar space, a dining area, and something that I didn’t explore downstairs. We were seated in a comfortable booth by the window offering an abundance of (gray) natural light. We were at the end of the lunch service so the restaurant was largely devoid of other patrons. There was a table next to us over which the wait staff hovered incessantly and we thing it may have been the owners. Made for fun people watching at any rate.

The lunch menu is extensive consisting of full entrees and dishes that can be ordered in small , medium, and large portion sizes. Initially, I ignored the optionally sized dishes and went straight to my entree. Yet, when James mentioned having a starter of avocado stuffed with crab and shrimp, my head jerked up like an alert prairie dog. Yes, avocado and crab is one of my favorite combinations. We ordered the small portion and what arrived was perfect for the two of us. One avocado halved and stuffed with a combination of finely chopped shrimp and crab, more of the latter than former. A delicate cream sauce was drizzled over the dish. It was perfect. The avocado had absolutely no blemishes and its flesh was vivid, firm, and flavorful. The crab was lightly sweet with no remnants of shell to be found. I eagerly ate my allotment wishing we ordered the medium.

For his main James ordered the ”Five Elements” cebiche with the fish of the day being Ono.  He hadn’t had cebiche in a long time and knew when the reservations were made, this is the dish he would have. The five elements made for a simple but elegant dish with the fresh Ono being the star. He was not disappointed.

My selection was more turf than surf as I chose the braised lamb shank. This was served in the Northern Peruvian style with cilantro, black beer, aji amarillo, onions, and garlic served with a canary bean purée and salsa criolla. Sounding a tad cliche, the meat fell from the bone and melted in your mouth. But not cliche were the flavors bold, spice from the aji and the salsa. Unlike any braised meat I’ve had. Generally, I’m not a person who likes beans of any sort, but those served with dish I could eat for days. Their texture was smooth, almost cream-like, and the flavors from the spices and black beer enhanced them all the more. A truly wonderful dish perfect for the rainy day that it was.

For those of you who enjoy ethnic cuisine that’s not your typical south of the border fare, try Peruvian. If you happen to be lucky enough to find an establishment as good as Andina you’ll like it even better.

Food: 4
Atmosphere: 3
Service: 3

Overall: 3.5

After receiving a recommendation from a Portland inhabitant, we made reservations at Genoa. Based on some cursory research, Genoa was a landmark restaurant that closed, redecorated, updated the menu, and recently reopened. In talking to our server, the transformation was quite extensive. I believe the phrase she used to describe the interior of the former restaurant was the “inside of grandma’s purse”.

We arrived 30 minutes earlier than our reservation specified but were graciously seated by the flamboyant host at a corner table that provided a nice degree of privacy. He introduced our server for the evening and made his way to the back of the restaurant, slipping behind heavy velvet curtains. The restaurant was slow that evening, with only two other couples dining with them – keep in mind it was a Wednesday. However, the restaurant next door was buzzing.

The surroundings at Genoa are intimate and warm – a predominately classic decor with modern touches. The warm feeling was a nice contrast to the cold damps from which we came. Colors are muted earth tones reminiscent of something you’d find in, yes, Italy. The central lighting fixture was a modern piece that consisted of varying sized panels of opaque glass that high around a cluster of central bulbs diffusing the light, once again softening the feel of the space. Romantic is a word that immediately comes to mind when thinking of this restaurant.

James started with his usual and I abstained given my day of over-imbibing. However, for dinner we did choose an amazing ’97 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino for a relatively modest price considering the vintage. The wine was still vivid with considerable fruit on the nose and palette an excellent representation of what is considered to be one of the best Tuscan Brunello vintages of the 20th century.

The menu is a $55 prix fixe affair consisting of five courses and for the quality of the food we found it to be worth the price. We commenced dinner with an amuse bouche of fingerling potato fried in duck fat with crispy leeks. Simple but quite flavorful – when does duck fat NOT make something flavorful.

Continuing the theme of simple but flavorful was our first course. A trio (seems like it’s always a trio) of mozzarella with olive oil and sardine, shaved asparagus in a vinaigrette, and a crispy artichoke heart. The restaurant’s philosophy is one of fresh ingredients make the food and this dish exemplified this approach. The start was minimalist in its approach but one could identify all flavors.

Next was a pasta course and we each chose the different of the two selections. My choice was the square cut spaghetti tossed with pecorino romano and fresh ground black pepper. This egg pasta was wonderfully done and perfectly al dente with a firm chewiness that I prefer. The portion was generous but my love for pasta was calling for a little more. The other past dish which James chose was the Tortelli di ricotta con guancial. The pasta was fresh and expertly prepared with great balance. A touch of mint added to the “lightness” of the dish.

The salad course while perfectly fine, did not compare to the rest of the meal. The vegetables were extremely fresh and the creamy lemon-caper dressing was quite good. I’m a fan of subtlety in my food, but the dressing was too scarce. Also, the breakfast variety used here did not impart any real flavor to the salad. Again, I stress the components were good, but the final product did not exhibit the flavor of the other dishes.

For our main course, I chose the braised oxtail (then pan fried) and James’ choice was the chicken “done the Devil’s way”. Again the dish was prepared perfectly with a lot of flavor but not over the top. The chicken was very tender and juicy from being marinated in mustard, herbs, red wine vinegar and chili flakes.   My oxtail was brought to the table on an oval platter and shaped into three triangles that were amazingly tender but crisp at the same time – the texture was quite interesting in a good way. It was accompanied by large (Roman-style) semolina gnocchi and grilled spring onions. The gnocchi were of substantial size and not as firm as I like gnocchi but the flavor was nice. Given that another course was on the way, I took only a small bite of the delicious onions.

Finally, dessert was presented. My selection was the zeppole a confection of Italian cinnamon doughnuts with the most heavenly hazelnut gelato I’ve tasted this side of the Atlantic. Even James did a slight swoon tasting the gelato. James chose the chocolate/espresso semifreddo which was quite delicious as well.

Oh, and not to forget the excellent service. The host handed us over to a fine server who was professional at first, but once we chatted with her a little, she relaxed and introduced a little casualness to her approach. Each dish was presented first by its Italian name then a description in English. Her accent came across as genuine Italian.

Genoa has always billed itself as a special occasion place and with this I agree. It’s intimate, the food is above par, and the service exactly as you want it. Whether you live in Portland or are there for a visit, we suggest you give it a try.

Food: 3.5
Atmosphere: 3.5
Service: 4

Overall: 3.5

My first experience with what the Portland area offers in the form of spirits and cocktails was in our hotel bar, The Urban Farmer. I was fortunate to have Lance as my bartender, a fellow spirits lover and bourbon writer. After the usual small talk, we came to subject of spirits. This opened a whole avenue of conversation and provided me with an education both academic (history, distilling processes, etc.) and practical (tastings). I casually mentioned that gin is one of my favorite spirits and out came the tasting glasses with a selection of locally distilled varieties. Of the five gins that Lance poured for me, Small’s was my favorite. This interesting blend of botanicals imparts a distinct fruit (raspberry) and spice (cardamom) character both on the nose and palette. While many gins are harsh and abrasive in nature demanding to be mixed, Small’s and these other small-batch crafted spirits can be quaffed individually. Another gin by the same producer crafted in an old world style was Old Tom Gin. This gin is distilled in the style prevalent in the mid 1800’s. It’s a honey-amber in color and offers a hint of maltiness due to its base. Both of these fine gins are made by Ransom and unfortunately almost impossible to find outside the state.

Another interesting fact about The Urban Farmer is that it is only bar in the States to produce their own brand of whiskey. This is aged for 15 months behind the bar in small New American Oak barrels. The resulting whiskey is a fine drink, smooth and not the least bit harsh. I tried samples from two different barrels and there was a distinct difference between the two. The bar’s/hotel’s liquor license doesn’t permit them to do general bottles sales unless you buy it by the shot through room service resulting in a bottle of whiskey costing several hundred dollars. While good, not something I would recommend.

Two other interesting things Lance was generous enough to let me sample included two brandies and a highly unusual vodka. A distiller by the name of Clear Creek produces two quite well done spirits, one apple and one pear. The pear brandy is done in classic eau de vie style and made from bartlett fruit. The scent of fruit bursts from the bottle and provides an excellent olfactory experience. Taste is crisp and intensely pear. Lance and I discussed the use of this in Side Car variations. The apple brandy is so good that it can compete with some of the best Calvados Normandy produces. If you’re in the Oregon, don’t miss these two. The final tasting that was highly interesting was Apia Vodka. This vodka comes from a most unusual source, honey. Sweet without being sweet is the only way I can describe this spirit exhibiting the essential flavor of honey. Sadly, the distillery was so artisan that it couldn’t compete with the “easy way out” of doing “craft spirits” that they went out of business. However, I was fortunate to taste some of this fine fine vodka that may never again be produced.

Wrapping up our tasting, I put my cocktail fate in Lance’s hands and asked him to make me a drink that would be unusual – something I’ve probably never experienced. After a moment’s thought, he said “we’re having a Martinez”. Now, the Martinez is considered to be the fore bearer of the modern day Martini; however, looking at them at face value one would be hard pressed to agree. The Martinez uses sweet vermouth creating a cocktail that is dark amber in color. For my Martinez, Lance didn’t use just any sweet vermouth. No, he used the mac daddy version – Carpano Antica. This is considered to be the original formulation of sweet vermouth and often thought to be the “only choice” for your Manhattan. It worked well in the Martinez too. The combination of gin, sweet vermouth, bitters and maraschino was excellent. A small slice of orange peel was brought over and delicately squeezed so that the oils would mist the surface of the drink. Attention to detail at it’s best.

After collecting James from his afternoon nap and dressing for dinner, we left the hotel early to stop at one of the city’s newest watering holes, Beaker & Flask. I started with one of the house concoctions, a Sal’s Minion. This is a combination of aged rum, pineapple gomme, and coconut water ice cubes. As the ingredients would imply, this drink has a bit of a tropical bent to it. The gomme (a thick sugar syrup) adds a healthy dose of sweetness without being cloying. A single, round piece of ice made of the coconut water was included. Perfect ice, perhaps? James selected the Norwegian Negroni – Krogstad aquavit, cynar, and sweet vermouth. As a snack, we chose a plate of smoked trout deviled eggs – quite good.

Our bartender, with his deep radio voice, was a serious sort of fellow. Two days of scruff, a short sleeved batik print shirt, and army green cargo pants, he wasn’t the guy you’d see at a stiff New York bar. An air of intense casualness pervades the Pacific Northwest and Beaker & Flask was no exception. A few minutes after we seated ourselves at the bar, he made a quick dash to his car to retrieve a messenger bag full of bar implements.

After watching him work while sipping my first drink, I put my fate in his hands by giving him some guidance on what I typically drink and let him choose my next cocktail. With almost no hesitation, he said we’ll set you up with a “Between the Sheets”. This slight variation of my beloved Side Car adds light rum to the mix for a flavorful but more potent version of my go to cocktail.

Advance to Sunday and we were seated at the bar in Ten 01, a fantastic place for dinner that we’ll blog about later. Kelley, our bartender for the evening, took especially good care of us. We had heard of Kelley through Lance at Urban Farmer so we knew we would have a good experience with him. For my starter cocktail, I opted for one of his creations, the Portland Pimm’s. This was a mixture of Pimm’s, ginger ale, mint, with fruit and cucumber. Very nice with a tang from the ginger and the spiciness of the Pimms was a winning combination. James’ started and finished with a Stringer’s Bell – a mixture of bourbon, cherry herring, bitters, and lime zest.

Next I moved on to an Alabazam. Once again, a short distance from a Side Car. This time, the drink calls for bitters and a dash of sugar. While the drink was carefully and well mixed, the bitters proved too much for me. I could possibly drink one or two a year but this wouldn’t be a go to cocktail for me.

We could go on about a couple of other stops made along the way (Clyde Common, Departure, Yakuza Lounge) during our two days in Portland, but we think a couple of pages devoted to the subject is sufficient. Portland represents provides a venue to explore your creative cocktail side in a relaxed but passionate environment.

The Nines offers two distinct restaurant/bar experiences, Departure and Urban Farmer. We’ll cover Departure in our cocktails review. Our experience at the Urban Farmer started with lunch the day of our arrival. After a long and hectic morning of travel, we decided a beer would be ideal with lunch. Both of us settled on a Hopworks Lager. This was a nice somewhat light brew that didn’t set off my anti-bitter alarms.

Urban Farmer bills itself as a Modern Steakhouse and give we only had lunch (and a couple of breakfasts) we can’t attest to how they fare  as a Steakhouse. The interior appointments support the name, however. Looking around the space, one is confronted with a number of colors and textures – sometimes a bit too much. To one side, the bar occupies the entire wall. In the center of the dining area is a large communal table that sits at bar height. The perimeter of the space is occupied with bench seating, tables, and chairs. Colors and patterns are a very interesting selection of plaids and vibrant colors such as pink, purple, and chartreuse. Textures also abound in the form of multiple wood types, glass, metal, and fabric. James was especially fond of the  plastic prairie grasses that were used to separate a number of tables from the main dining room. One interesting feature of the restaurant was a number of large flat panel TV’s that ran a loop of pseudo traffic driving along the interstate and overpasses as they would be viewed from a field .

On to the food. With the day being rainy and cool, soup sound ideal and they had one of my favorites, she crab soup. This was an excellent rendition of the classic with a couple of updates. Presentation was unique in that a Scandinavian style bowl was brought to the table containing only some lump crab meat and what they termed “yolk confit”. In his other hand, the server held what looked to be a cast iron tea pot of Far Eastern origin. As the soup’s liquid component was slowly poured, we caught whiffs of sherry, cream, and herbs from the accompanying steam. Two large triangles of grilled bread leaned on the sides of the bowl as garnish and for addressing any stray traces of liquid. The soup was creamy and rich without a cloying quality. An appropriate amount of sweetness from both the crab and liquid provided a n interesting backdrop to the sherry and herbs. James scooped up the yolk confit. Not having had a “yolk confit” before it resembled a soft boiled egg and tasted like one as well. This dish was a wise choice as we proceeded to use the bread to sop up every last drop.

The main attraction for lunch was the cheesesteak sandwich with shaved wagyu sirloin, gruyere fondue, and house chips. This more than ample sandwich was served open-face style. Nothing about this was scant in nature – generous amounts of cheese, onions, and peppers were all present. Flavors were rich and hearty in this take on the popular east coast invention. The beef while tender and flavorful, did not have the depth we’ve found in other wagyu beef dishes. In this case, it tasted like any high quality prime beef. The gruyere flavors were present and were a nice touch to typical generic cheeses used in cheesesteak sandwiches. One disappointment was that the bread did become somewhat soggy losing its crispness had at the start of the meal.

Service was well above average and what I would expect for a luxury hotel restaurant. Our wait staff was knowledgeable and attentive, but still casual in many respects.

The bar is a different experience that we’ll get to in another review.

If you’re looking for a trendy spot with an interesting menu to have lunch then Urban Farmer is a good choice.

Food: 3.5
Service: 4.0
Atmosphere: 3.5

Overall: 3.5

Wine country this year proved exceptional in many ways and not just the wine. We met some amazing people and saw some different perspectives of the region than we experienced last year. For those of you who are wine lovers and appreciate a good adventure, I would recommend the Willamette over its California cousins to the South. In many cases, the wineries are still family owned and operated giving a completely different “feel” than what you would encounter in the (cattle herd mentality) Napa Valley. To be fair, Sonoma is quieter and does offer some of this je ne ‘est pas, but nothing like what we’ve seen in Oregon.

Over the next couple of weeks look for posts on these restaurant experiences, plus a view into the wine country and a brief take on the Portland spirits community. I learned (the hard way) that the Portland inhabitants take not only their food seriously, but also their cocktails and liquor.

As usual, we invite you to comment and let us know your thoughts. Our goal is to create a community of those who love both food and beverage.

Enjoy!

Dean and James

Despite being a Sunday, we had to take an early reservation at 6:15 bucking our late dining trend. We arrived promptly at the designated hour to find the bar bustling and the (communal) tables half full. The clientele was an interesting mix, consisting of what appeared to be a number locals (perhaps from the industry), to those who I would not immediately identify as “foodies”. However, you could definitely tell that was a place that had more than its fair share of regulars – a good sign. During the meal, the woman who appeared to be the manager/hostess told us the Mr. Rucker was in New York for functions surrounding his second James Beard nomination. Something worth noting (we think). Another indicator of the restaurant’s notoriety was that mid-way through our meal a group culinary students joined us at the other end of our table. You could see and hear the passion for food and when the dishes began to arrive, out came the cameras and the volume of the discussion rose noticeably.

The menu was simple yet compelling causing us to be slower than usual in making our selections. James opted for the Orzo with Snails and Rapini. The dish was more complex than we had originally though. In addition to the main ingredients, it was finished with a green garlic pesto, black garlic butter, and shaved parmesan.

Of course, my starter selection was easier than James’ since there was the presence of foie gras on the menu. The (very generous) portion was served over a puff pastry with a rhubarb purée. The pastry and rhubarb reminded me of a very spring-like chaussons aux pommes, one of my favorite french pastries. The foie was sheer perfection slightly crispy around the edges and the creamiest interior imaginable.

Accompanying our first course, upon suggestion we had a (demi bottle) ’02 Alsace Grand Cru Riesling Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé. Like the starters, the wine did not disappoint. The color was a rich golden yellow with a floral nose composed mostly of honeysuckle. The palate consisted primarily of peach and apricot. It was balanced with nice acidity.

For my main, the choice was much more difficult. There were some very interesting and unique options available. One which almost captured my vote was a “different” take on two classics put together – a veal scallopini and tuna casserole. Yes, I know, strange as it may sound this was appealing to me. In the end though, I selected the Confit of Duck with Radish, Potato, and Asparagus. It was finished with a most unusual sauce that made me crave another bite each time with a sweet tang that was just subtle enough to stimulate the taste buds. It prompted me to ask the our server the composition of this and the answer was a gastrique of sorts with orange juice, muscadet vinegar, and honey. Simple enough but oh so delicious. Again, the portion of the duck was more than ample. Like the foie, it was cooked to perfection; skin crispy and meat juicy. Even though I had duck confit at one of the restaurants earlier in the trip, this one eclipsed the other by a huge margin.

I’m not sure if James struggled with his selection as much as me, but in the end he ordered the Rabbit with Morbier, Potatoes, Peas, and Onions.

Our wine selection was again left up to the host/manager. She impressed us with her knowledge of the menu and her keen ability to pair. In general, we were a bit surprised at the list as we were expecting a vast array of Oregon selections. Instead, we were met with a preponderance of French wines; with most hailing from Burgundy. There were a few Oregon selections, but we thought something from the Old World would be fitting in this “French” environment. With that said, an ’06 Vosne-Romanee Nicolas Potel was the choice. It was a medium to full-bodied Pinot Noir with the nose displaying red berries and less terroir than we expected. The palate did show more earthiness and mineraility than the nose but it was more fruit forward than expected. A good match to the food but its star did not shine as brightly as the cuisine.

While we said we were going to be good and not have dessert, there was one thing on the menu too interesting to pass by. A profiterole with foie gras in every component in a caramel sauce accented with a touch of salt. Being the foie freak that I am, this sounded too intriguing to pass by and it did not let us down. It was your standard (well done) pastry with ice cream but the flavors bordered on the sublime. Salty sweetness pervaded every aspect of the dish resulting in a surprisingly savory dessert. Yes, savory and dessert may not be a typical word combination one sees but other descriptions escape me.

After quite sometime away from the original draft of this review, the memory of the food still stands out. A true reflection of amazing nature of the cuisine. The food is truly creative and interesting, but perhaps not for everyone’s palette. We’ve watched the menu change over the months since our visit to Le Pigeon and some of the selections were a bit much even for an adventurous eater such as myself. I would not make a trip to Portland without a consideration for a visit to Mr. Rucker’s eatery. However, check the menu first to ensure that there are selections that appeal to you. Our Spring long weekend jaunt to the Willamette Valley is coming up in May and, of course, we are considering a stop at Le Pigeon.

Atmosphere: 3.5
Service: 4.5
Food: 4.5
Wine: 4.0

Overall: 4.0/5.0

Of course, James and I arrived early to have a cocktail in the bar. The space was fairly large and well appointed, if not a bit understated. Dark wood abounds and the fabrics also veer toward dark neutrals. A warm inviting space for the fall and winter seasons to be sure, but perhaps a bit heavy for spring and summer. The bar itself was almost full so we settled on a couple of side chairs separated by a granite-topped table –  very comfy lounging furniture, I might add. James had his usual Kettle One martini but I opted for a house signature cocktail – the pear martini. This was a concoction of bosc pear infused vodka, St. Germaine elderflower liquor, and a splash of vermouth. While many of these off-shoot martinis are disgustingly sweet, this was subtle in both flavor and sweetness. Definitely worth trying if you like something a little out of the ordinary. With its comfortable surroundings, good cocktails, and the fact that its open Sundays we decided this may be a place we frequent on a regular basis.

With the arrival of Ryan and Nadira, we moved to the dining room for a highly anticipated dinner both from the perspectives of catching up with friends and trying what creations the restaurant had to offer. After a little discussion, we agreed upon the chef’s tasting menu, a five course affair that we were hoping wouldn’t leave us uncomfortably full.

The atmosphere was a bit disappointing. While all of the appointments are well done, it’s a very large space that lacks intimacy and there isn’t a special feel to it. In short, it’s like a large hotel restaurant dining hall that caters to the business diner more than foodie. This is unfortunate given the excellence of the cuisine.

Service was attentive and we had no less than four servers ensuring that we were comfortable. Despite being friendly and ever present when needed, they didn’t exhibit a great depth of knowledge about the food or wine. Not disappointing, but we were hoping for a little more. However, I must stress that service was carried out always with a smile and we are fairly demanding when it comes to this aspect of the dining experience. Also, we think our server read the table well and saw that we were intent on conversation with friends; therefore she worked to be as unobtrusive as possible. On to the food.

In some reviews that we read prior to our visit, several diners had complained about the food. Honestly, I don’t know why. Our meal was absolutely delicious, presentation was top notch, portions (as mentioned) were perfect. Would we have made tweaks? Yes. But given this is the Raleigh-Durham area, Herons is a standout.

We started with an amuse bouche of salmon tartar with pineapple in fermented barley. Quite nice and achieved it’s of objectives of being interesting, delicious, and a pallet cleanser.

The first course on the tasting menu was a torchon of foie gras with pistachio dusted brioche and ice wine gelee. This small plate was arranged with a disc of both foie and brioche slightly leaning on one another with the cubes of the gelee dotting the plate. What’s not to like about rich creamy duck liver, accompanied by a rich bread? Correct, nothing. An excellent starter to the meal. Although, despite my love of foie, this was probably my least favorite dish of the meal – still quite good but not as much so as the other courses.

Next was the scallop dish. This was a seared diver scallop with celery root chowder, country ham, and leeks, topped with a celery root foam. This was excellent. Personally, I can take or leave scallops – especially if they are least bit undercooked. However, this one was prepared well and exceptionally tender. It imparted those lovely flavors of the ocean and was a great accompaniment to the chowder. Having been raised on country cooking, I tend to love anything with ham and this was no exception. The smokiness of the pork paired well with the flavors of the scallop. The foam was eye-pleasing as well as imparting just a dash of the celery root characteristics.

The seafood course was followed by a roast pheasant breast (not quail as the menu on line states) prepared with vanilla onion jam, maple balsamic. Did the chef put this menu together knowing that I would be dining there? This dish encapsulates some of my favorite flavors and combinations – onion jam, maple, balsamic, vanilla. Presentation was spare and artful. A slice of the pheasant (skin on – yes bad for you, but oh so good), a small rectangle of date bread pudding, and a vanilla cream fraische dollop. Good doesn’t begin to describe this dish. Of all the flavors and items on the plate, my favorite was the bread pudding. It was dense, moist, and savory. I could have eaten an entire pan of it.

Now for the red meat course – beef two ways. A prime rib cap served rare and a rectangle of beef short rib. The prime was flanked to the left by a small portion of cauliflower gratin and the short rib situated next to an ingot of potato flan. This was some of the best beef I’ve had and that’s even taking into the consideration the Wagyu we had at Cyrus last month (review forthcoming). Yes, for all intents and purposes was just meat and potatoes but it was one of the best spin offs of that mid-western staple that I’ve ever seen and tasted. The prime cap was moist and displayed excellent flavor and texture, but the short rib stole the beef show. It was so tender that I’m surprised it simply didn’t fall apart based on the pull of gravity. One touch from a fork and it started to come unraveled. Its braising was perfect and, to use a cliche I detest, it literally melted in your mouth. The cauliflower while good simply did not compare to the beef; however, the potato flan was quite good. Think ultra rich mashed potatoes with an almost custard-like consistency.

Again, did they know I was coming to dinner last night? For dessert, they had one of my favorites discovered while in a pub in London – sticky toffee pudding. Now, while the desert I’ve had over there is big and hearty and almost too much, this was a true gourmet rendition of something a tad common. Presentation was a rectangle of the pudding with a brown sugar caramel sauce poured over it at the table and accompanied by a burnt almond ice cream. Like the bread pudding before it, this was dense and moist but a touch lighter. The sweetness wasn’t overbearing or cloying. An ice cream accompaniment was a good choice and one could tell it was made fresh in-house. An excellent end to the tasting menu.

I will say we were disappointed with the wine parings hence why we didn’t mention them above. Both James and I felt they were almost an afterthought. Surprisingly, the one I liked best was a Chardonnay with the scallop course. Our main server described it as buttery and I could see James barely holding back a roll of his eyes. However, it had an adequate amount of acidity and the flavors of apple and pear went nicely with the smokiness of the ham. This an area where we would like to see the restaurant improve. Although, we will note that they tried for an international selection with some off the beaten path selections (e.g. New Zealand Pinot Noir), but they didn’t match the excellence of the food. However, their wine list does look interesting and we’ll order from it next time.

In sum, a trip to Herons is definitely recommended and if you’re feeling adventurous try the tasting menu. For the quality and quantity of the food, it’s well worth the price. We chose this based on the fact it’s open Sundays and it turned out to be a great discovery. Who knew Cary, NC offered such a memorable dining experience.

Overall: 3.5

L’Arpege was the destination for the evening and destination was indeed the correct term. Pim was our inspiration for this restaurant and again she did not fail us in her selection.  The restaurant sits in an unassuming building close to the Musee Rodin in the 7th. We approached the door with high expectations and honestly some trepidation. Upon entering, it was apparent this was going to be an entirely different experience than our other three star excursion. We were promptly seated for what was to be a five hour dining extravaganza.

Pour yourself a glass of wine and read on. We hope we do justice in words to what the meal provided us.

First, before getting into the details of the meal, we think it’s important (and interesting) to give some background on the chef and his philosophy. Alain Passard is the mastermind behind L’Arpege and its owner. His origin is northern France, hailing from Brittany. Through various moves in Europe’s restaurant community, he eventually purchased (1986) what was to become L’Arpege from his mentor. It took only a single year to earn one star, a second star was added the following year. In 1996, the restaurant earned and has maintained its third star. Of particular interest, is his passion in vegetables. For a time beginning in 2001, he removed all red meat from the menu to explore his intense interest in vegetables and while red meat has made its way back, vegetables are the noticeable focus. Said legumes are taken from his “gardens” outside of Paris where not only are only organic practices used, but machines have been banned in the farming process. We feel understanding the above lends to the experience and elevates the simple act of eating to something indeed special.

Before going any further, we do want to note that a meal at L’Arpege is a milestone event not just in terms of the food but also the impact to one’s wallet. It would be inappropriate to divulge the price of the meal. However, we’ll divulge a some of our conclusions here. We consider this meal an investment not only in dining experience but also as an indelible memory for us.

Five hours is a significant amount of time for one to spend eating. Yet, the time passed effortlessly. Of course, being our last and highly anticipated dining event, we selected the chef’s tasting menu. Over the course of five hours, 13 dishes were brought to the table including amuse bouche, chef’s surprises, and those that were actually on the menu.

As we settled in to await our first sampling of the kitchen’s skills, we sipped our coupe de champagne (Billecart-Salmon) and took in the setting. At first glance L’Arpege, while very nice, doesn’t immediately come across as special. It is a well appointed establishment, but doesn’t have the visual punch that other establishments offered. That is, until you know some of the details of the interior. For example, the walls are paneled with pear wood; honey blond, rich and deep. Inset are glass panels custom made for the restaurant by Lalique. Even (some of) of the table stemware is made by the famed glass maker exclusively for L’Arpege. Furniture is understated with chrome framed chairs with deep burgundy cushions that are quite comfortable.

I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that the space is somewhat cramped inside. Diners are relatively close together, not as bad as other establishments, but closer than some of its competition. One other small detail that we found bothersome was the preparation cart (used for serving and desserts in our area) that regularly pinned us in. However, after the food began to arrive and we took our first bites, any shortcomings of the physical space and other diners quickly evaporated.

To begin, we were served a caviar of petit tomatoes in sherry vinegar. Upon initial inspection, this looked too simple – a bowl of tomatoes? Yet tasting these simply elegant delicacies reminded us of the caliber of restaurant we were in and was the perfect prelude to the rest of the dishes to follow. The tomatoes were unexpectedly hot but maintained all the texture of an uncooked specimen. The vinegar added a touch of tartness to the tomatoes and, as James remarked, despite the concentration of acidity in the dish it simple worked. Presentation was again elegant, served in a deep silver bowl sporting a highly polished interior reflecting the contents – perhaps to give the illusion of a more generous quantity than was actually provided.

Following the simplicity theme of the tomatoes, came a dish of candied red onions. This was served in a rustic white individual size casserole. The onions were treated with nothing more than butter, parmesan, and pepper then baked until a tender consistency was achieved. The first bite elicited some confusion on my part. Too simple, perhaps? However, each bite revealed pure flavors of the scant number of ingredients used to prepare the dish. Again, this focused on the vegetable and demonstrating how interesting and enjoyable a lowly garden offering such as the onion can be elevated to something to contemplate.

The next course increased in complexity. A quintuple of vegetable stuffed raviolis in a celery root consumme arrived at the table in the a silver bowl like that used for the tomatoes. Each ravioli was no more than 2 inches in diameter and the shell transparent. A different filling was used for each pasta and they were in a word, sensational, giving a new definition to the word delicate. Flavors flirted with taste buds teasing you as to what they were before slowly vanishing leaving you disappointed another of the same type wasn’t available to sample. Memorable.

Moving on, we were brought what was possibly my favorite course of the evening. Lobster with turnips in a honey and vinegar dressing. The presentation for this dish was lovely with the turnips shaved and draped carefully over the shell fish in such a manor that one could steal brief glimpses of the red flesh beneath. Interestingly the dressing was the same color as the turnips (intentional?) and while a monochromatic execution such as this could tend toward the boring, this was quite the opposite. If the presentation impressed, the dish itself amazed. In every dish it became more clear Chef Passard’s skill with vegetables. In this case, he takes the plebeian turnip, often tough, and pairs it with the aristocratic lobster. The turnip is so tender that it’s hardly recognizable as the vegetable of that name; however, the taste removes any doubt. Both James and I agreed the lobster was probably the sweetest, most tender example we’ve had. Not to forget, the honey vinegar dressing was a perfect balance of sweet and tart. James made an excellent observation on this course, referring to it as a nouveau rendition of “surf and turf”.

A gazpacho of tomato with mustard ice cream followed. This was an interesting dish, but honestly (unfortunately) it followed such a stand-out that my focus on it was somewhat diminished. Again, the abundance of flavor provided by the tomatoes was outstanding. The mustard ice cream, while flavorful and well paired, was a bit overpowering. The mustard offered some heat coming from the ice cream making for an interesting dichotomy.

Next was perhaps the most creative dish of the entire meal. A veloute of yellow pepper with pimento and a Speck ham whipped cream.  This was the first dish that used some form of “red” meat in the form of the whipped cream. The veloute was flavorful having the ability to distinguish easily between pepper and pimento. The whipped cream added the appropriate amount of seasoning and the smokiness from the ham was a nice complement.

What was probably James’ favorite dish of the meal arrived next. This was a plate of garden vegetables prepared in Moroccan argan oil. Without sounding repetitive, the simplicity of this dish was nothing short of miraculous. I’m more of a true mid-western “meat and potato” kind of eater but this dish of (mostly common) vegetables impressed mightily. This included potatoes, beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, and others. Presentation was was direct with a seemingly scattered arrangement of legumes of varying shapes, sizes, and colors adorning a white plate. Texture was perfect with each of the vegetables cooked to the point where they were agreeably warm without destroying their natural texture. I believe James will write later about how this impacted our thinking about food and simplicity, but this was a singular dish for both of us. It taught us that for something to be excellent and memorable, it doesn’t require a cornucopia of ingredients. James remarked that if he could grow, harvest and prepare vegetables this well, he’d be vegetarian.

Fish was our next course, consisting of a turbot in a yellow wine cream sauce with cabbage mousse and smoked potatoes. Presentation was uncomplicated with a well filleted piece of turbot on which was drizzled a line of sauce. A small portion of cabbage mousse accompanied the fish, along with two fingerling potatoes. While no complaints could be made about the fish and sauce, it was once again the vegetables that took center stage. On the subject of the fish, it was all of the typical adjectives one can use to define it. The sauce was harmoniously integrated into the dish. The mousse was exceptionally interesting exhibiting the flavors of its namesake but in a wholly new form and texture. However, eliciting the most conversation were the potatoes. That two small and (yes again) simple potatoes could elicit so many comments was surprising. The “pommes de terre” were firm in texture (i.e. not overcooked) and held the most intense, yet not overpowering, taste of smoke that after taking a single bite it prompted both of us to say “more please”.

A chef’s surprise followed in the form of lightly curried langoustines served in the shell. Nothing more, nothing less. Three of the crustaceans were placed in front of each of us on a basic white platter. The shell fish was prepared to the best it could be. However, I think the operative words in this paragraph are lightly curried. Yes, subtleness was the theme to much of the food, but the curry flavors were too ephemeral overpowered by the taste of the ocean coming from the langoustines.

The finale before desserts (yes plural) began was lamb. When ordering, we were given the choice of having the lamb prepared with herbs or in an emulsion of oysters. We both chose the oyster method. The plate set before us contained only lamb and onion rings – basic but amazing. The cuts of lamb included both a single rib chop and generous portion of loin. Intense can be used to describe the flavors of oyster, especially in the rib chop and less so in the loin. Tender and bursting with juice should be sufficient description to impart how well prepared the meat was – the first true red meat of the dinner. A handful of onion rings were stacked next to the lamb and I never want another onion ring again after having those as they have ruined me for life. Crunchy yet tender, sweet yet tangy, a mixture of opposites. Again, let us stress this was simple and that’s what made it excellent. To our delight (chagrin?) our server said the chef wanted us to have another portion of the lamb so we reluctantly and quickly agreed, but this time opted for the herb preparation. This time more of the lamb’s flavors were apparent as the herbs were more delicate than the stronger flavors of the oyster – two completely different dishes.

Speaking of the service, like the rest of the meal it was perfectly executed but in a wholly different way than our other three star experience. Where service at Le Meurice was flawlessly choreographed, this was simple and more personal. The wait staff at both restaurants were fluent in English but at L’Arpege two of our servers imparted stories of favorite dishes, personal travels, and the chef’s history. A platoon of wait staff wasn’t the intention at L’Arpege. Instead, we think that their intention is a professional yet simplistic approach accented with a personal tone.

Excellent cheese. I’ll say no more.

Finally, we moved to the dessert courses. Yes, there were three desserts including the sampling of macaroons and chocolates. First was an apple tart in the form of a “crown”. Each of the points on the crown was made of pastry. Yes, this was basic but we think it was the correct dish to serve as the principle dessert. A plate of chocolate treats accompanied by three macaroons made of vegetables was brought to the table; James partook of them but I abstained. Honeydew sorbet was the final plate brought to the table. Best described as essence of the melon, with only the sweetness of the melon and no apparent added sugar. An appropriate ending to a meal lasting until 1:30 AM.

Upon reading the review, it sounded to us like platitude heaped upon platitude. However, this meal proved to be an education in food and how even in simple forms it can be astounding. While L’Arpege may not have the opulent interior of other establishments or the choreographed service, it far excels its brethren in terms of astounding food. Which is the main reason we dine out, is it not?

Food: 5

Service: 4

Atmosphere: 3

Overall: 4.5

Dean and James