My 25th High School Reunion prompted a second trip in as many years to Ohio. Much like the 2009 trip, I spent the first few days with my long time friend, Paige. Those first few days were actually spent in Kentucky, but it’s just across the river from Cincinnati so close enough. To commemorate her birthday, which occurred the day of my arrival, we decided to make our way into the city for a celebratory evening out.
In thinking of food in the Queen City, my thoughts turned to chili and hot dogs at one its stadiums. However, through a little research, I discovered an establishment in the trendy Mount Adams area of Cincinnati – Daveed’s at 934. Located in an old house on one of the area’s hilly streets, the restaurant offers diners a good experience in both food and service.
The space itself is simple and a bit rambling. Given its roots as an older dwelling, there are separate dining areas each with its own feel as far as furnishings and colors. We were seated in what felt to be a more modern part of the restaurant that consisted of simple furniture with brighter fabrics of bold colors. Overall, the atmosphere was pleasant, if a bit uninspired.
With her hectic schedule, Paige doesn’t often find the time to have an evening out, prompting us to start with a pre-dinner cocktail. The signature cocktail list was on the fruity and sweet side so I opted for my go-to selection (the Sidecar). When asking for the top shelf version of the drink and specifically stating cognac and Cointreau, what came back was simply the two liquors shaken – no lemon juice. While those two liquids do mix well, I like the tart acidity that comes from the lemon. Atypical for me, I did ask our server to re-shake the drink with some juice. However, what came back still wasn’t up to par with what I usually receive. Paige’s drink was a simple concoction that consisted of vodka and fruit juices. It was refreshing and not as sweet as we both expected.
The menu was a simple affair making for limited spent on decisions. Given that we’ve always been of like mind, we chose the same dishes. Just to ease us into what was to come, we selected the truffled french fries with an aioli. Despite the simplicity of the dish and the fact that every fast food joint sells fries, Daveed’s has elevated these simple spuds to an art form. Really, these were some of the best fries I’ve ever tasted. These larger cut potatoes had a crispy exterior with a cross between a creamy and fluffy interior. In addition to the truffle oil, there was a dusting of parmesan cheese giving them a bit of extra tanginess. We found ourselves squabbling over the crumbs – they were that good.
Next we both chose, of course, the foie gras. Would I pick anything else for a starter if this arterial plaque inducing option is on the menu? Despite its obvious unhealthy character, this is truly the food of the gods. The set up for the Daveed’s preparation was pan seared served on a triangle folded pancake drizzled with maple syrup accompanied by macerated cherries. An unusual combination that worked quite well. I was a bit concerned at first when the thinner area of the very generous portion was overcooked, but as I moved in the thicker region of the cut it was that creaminess one expects from properly seared liver. A bit of a surprise arrived at the table in the form of complimentary wine. In this case is was a 2006 Muscato (I didn’t make note of the winery). Not a sauternes, but as usual the good pairing of sweet wine with creamy foie is always appreciated.
As an interlude, we chose to split an heirloom tomato salad. What arrived at the table was a little unexpected. My definition of an heirloom tomato salad is big chunks of tomato with fresh mozzarella, basil and a slight vinegar base. Instead, what we received was a plate of arugula with tomatoes with cheese in a (very) light balsamic dressing. The ingredients were extremely fresh and the taste was up to expectation. Yet, I missed the juiciness of what I’ve typically had in salads of this name.
Before moving on to our main course, it’s important to mention the service. Simply stated, it was excellent. Our server, who we correctly guessed, was of French descent and probably one of the warmest wait staff members I’ve had in recent history. Always pleasant and attentive, she was highly knowledgable regarding the menu and always present when needed, but never hovering. Exceptional.
For our entree, the duck breast was the winner. Like the foie, the set up was a bit unexpected and we weren’t sure if it would work together, but we were both craving duck. The preparation was a generous portion of fowl with pasta and white cheddar. The duck was superbly prepared tender, rare, and juicy – just the way I like it. The pasta was perfectly al dente and the cheddar was more mild than sharp adding a subtle flavor. A prize of a dish.
We graciously refused dessert as we took home respectable amounts of the duck and pasta.
Daveed’s represents an interesting dining selection worth a visit if you ever find yourself in the Queen City along the Ohio River.
Food: 3.0
Atmosphere: 3.0
Service: 3.5
Overall: 3.00
Cheers,
Dean
