I think being first is a difficult thing. Firsts seem to have high expectations placed up on them – first child for example or first in line to deliver a presentation. Such was the case for our first dinner in Oregon. The core of this trip was for the food and wine so some level of expectation was placed on our first dining experience. Fortunately, Genoa didn’t disappoint as a first.
After receiving a recommendation from a Portland inhabitant, we made reservations at Genoa. Based on some cursory research, Genoa was a landmark restaurant that closed, redecorated, updated the menu, and recently reopened. In talking to our server, the transformation was quite extensive. I believe the phrase she used to describe the interior of the former restaurant was the “inside of grandma’s purse”.
We arrived 30 minutes earlier than our reservation specified but were graciously seated by the flamboyant host at a corner table that provided a nice degree of privacy. He introduced our server for the evening and made his way to the back of the restaurant, slipping behind heavy velvet curtains. The restaurant was slow that evening, with only two other couples dining with them – keep in mind it was a Wednesday. However, the restaurant next door was buzzing.
The surroundings at Genoa are intimate and warm – a predominately classic decor with modern touches. The warm feeling was a nice contrast to the cold damps from which we came. Colors are muted earth tones reminiscent of something you’d find in, yes, Italy. The central lighting fixture was a modern piece that consisted of varying sized panels of opaque glass that high around a cluster of central bulbs diffusing the light, once again softening the feel of the space. Romantic is a word that immediately comes to mind when thinking of this restaurant.
James started with his usual and I abstained given my day of over-imbibing. However, for dinner we did choose an amazing ’97 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino for a relatively modest price considering the vintage. The wine was still vivid with considerable fruit on the nose and palette an excellent representation of what is considered to be one of the best Tuscan Brunello vintages of the 20th century.
The menu is a $55 prix fixe affair consisting of five courses and for the quality of the food we found it to be worth the price. We commenced dinner with an amuse bouche of fingerling potato fried in duck fat with crispy leeks. Simple but quite flavorful – when does duck fat NOT make something flavorful.
Continuing the theme of simple but flavorful was our first course. A trio (seems like it’s always a trio) of mozzarella with olive oil and sardine, shaved asparagus in a vinaigrette, and a crispy artichoke heart. The restaurant’s philosophy is one of fresh ingredients make the food and this dish exemplified this approach. The start was minimalist in its approach but one could identify all flavors.
Next was a pasta course and we each chose the different of the two selections. My choice was the square cut spaghetti tossed with pecorino romano and fresh ground black pepper. This egg pasta was wonderfully done and perfectly al dente with a firm chewiness that I prefer. The portion was generous but my love for pasta was calling for a little more. The other past dish which James chose was the Tortelli di ricotta con guancial. The pasta was fresh and expertly prepared with great balance. A touch of mint added to the “lightness” of the dish.
The salad course while perfectly fine, did not compare to the rest of the meal. The vegetables were extremely fresh and the creamy lemon-caper dressing was quite good. I’m a fan of subtlety in my food, but the dressing was too scarce. Also, the breakfast variety used here did not impart any real flavor to the salad. Again, I stress the components were good, but the final product did not exhibit the flavor of the other dishes.
For our main course, I chose the braised oxtail (then pan fried) and James’ choice was the chicken “done the Devil’s way”. Again the dish was prepared perfectly with a lot of flavor but not over the top. The chicken was very tender and juicy from being marinated in mustard, herbs, red wine vinegar and chili flakes. My oxtail was brought to the table on an oval platter and shaped into three triangles that were amazingly tender but crisp at the same time – the texture was quite interesting in a good way. It was accompanied by large (Roman-style) semolina gnocchi and grilled spring onions. The gnocchi were of substantial size and not as firm as I like gnocchi but the flavor was nice. Given that another course was on the way, I took only a small bite of the delicious onions.
Finally, dessert was presented. My selection was the zeppole a confection of Italian cinnamon doughnuts with the most heavenly hazelnut gelato I’ve tasted this side of the Atlantic. Even James did a slight swoon tasting the gelato. James chose the chocolate/espresso semifreddo which was quite delicious as well.
Oh, and not to forget the excellent service. The host handed us over to a fine server who was professional at first, but once we chatted with her a little, she relaxed and introduced a little casualness to her approach. Each dish was presented first by its Italian name then a description in English. Her accent came across as genuine Italian.
Genoa has always billed itself as a special occasion place and with this I agree. It’s intimate, the food is above par, and the service exactly as you want it. Whether you live in Portland or are there for a visit, we suggest you give it a try.
Food: 3.5
Atmosphere: 3.5
Service: 4
Overall: 3.5
